Understanding Yarn Count: A Simple Guide

Yarn count is an important concept in the textile industry. It tells us how thick or thin a yarn is, and it relates the length of the yarn to its weight. In simple terms, yarn count shows the ratio of length to weight. 

Two Types of Yarn Count Systems

There are two main systems used to measure yarn count: Direct Count and Indirect Count.

1. Direct Count System

In this system, the weight of a fixed length of yarn is measured. The weight per unit length determines the yarn count. The formula is:

N = (I × C) / L

Where:

• N = Yarn count
• I = Unit of length (like meters or yards)
• C = Weight of the sample
• L = Length of the sample

In the Direct Count System, the length of yarn is fixed, and its weight varies based on the yarn's thickness.

Common Direct Count Systems:

• Tex: The weight in grams of 1000 meters of yarn.
  Example: A 40 Tex yarn means 1000 meters of yarn weighs 40 grams.

• Denier: The weight in grams of 9000 meters of yarn.
  Example: A 150 Denier yarn means 9000 meters of yarn weighs 150 grams.

• Decitex: The weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn.
  Example: A 1000 Decitex yarn means 10,000 meters of yarn weighs 1000 grams.

• Jute Count: Measures the weight of yarn in pounds per 14,400 yards.
  Example: A Jute count of 10 means 10 pounds of yarn for every 14,400 yards.

2. Indirect Count System

In the Indirect Count System, the weight of a fixed length of yarn is measured. Here, the length per unit weight determines the yarn count. The formula is:

N = (L × W) / (I × C)

Where:

• N = Yarn count
• L = Length of the sample
• W = Weight of the sample
• I = Unit of weight
• C = Unit of length

In this system, the weight of the yarn is fixed, and its length changes based on how thick or thin the yarn is.

Common Indirect Count Systems:

• English Count (Ne): The number of 840-yard hanks per pound.
  Example: A yarn with 32 Ne means that 32 hanks of 840 yards each weigh one pound.

• Metric Count (Nm): The number of 1000-meter hanks per kilogram.
  Example: A 50 Nm yarn means that 50 hanks of 1000 meters each weigh one kilogram.

• Woolen Count: Measures the number of 256-yard lengths per pound.
  Example: A 56 Woolen Count yarn means that 56 hanks of 256 yards each weigh one pound.

Key Points to Remember:

• Higher Yarn Count = Coarser Yarn (thicker yarn).
• Lower Yarn Count = Finer Yarn (thinner yarn).
• Direct Count: Measures weight per unit length.
• Indirect Count: Measures length per unit weight.

A hank is a unit of length used in yarn measurement. It refers to a specific length of yarn that is wound into a loop or coil. The length of a hank varies depending on the yarn count system:

• In the English count system, a hank is 840 yards long.
• In the Metric count system, a hank is 1000 meters long.

So, when we say 32 Ne, it means 32 hanks of 840 yards each weigh one pound.

Examples to Remember:

• A 40 Tex yarn means that 1000 meters of yarn weigh 40 grams (coarse yarn).
• A 150 Denier yarn means that 9000 meters of yarn weigh 150 grams (coarse yarn).
• A 32 Ne yarn means 32 hanks of 840 yards each weigh one pound (finer yarn).